Aerobeez 105″ Extra 330 Reaper Step by Step Build Log

Posted by aerobeez On October - 5 - 2016

Aerobeez 105″ Extra 330 Reaper Step by Step Build Log


Hey everyone! Welcome to the Step by Step build log for the NEW 105″ Extra 330 Reaper! We have put a lot of research and development into this kit. With customer feedback on existing models as well as our own experience with the prototypes to help develop our first 105″ model, this model is packed with what has become the Aerobeez standard. We also cut down build time in many areas by pre-hinging, pre-building, or pre-plumbing. This build will be following our team pilot Orel’s build steps and will include personal tips and tricks that he uses when building any of his models.

Orel’s Set-Up:
Engine: DLA-116cc
Servos: 7 x Hitec HSB-9380th (All Control Surfaces)
1 x Hitec HS-5665 (Throttle)
Prop: Xoar 28×8
Battery: 2 x Gens Ace 2s 3500mah RX pack

Before we start building, Orel highly recommends using lock-tight for every single screw in the airplane.

Step 1: Prep

Lay everything out on the table before we begin to make sure we have everything. Then go through all the joints in the fuselage with thin CA.

Step 2: Control Horns & Suraface Install
Now locate your wing, stabilizer, and rudder bag and remove all of the control horns and lay them out in front of you. Using sand paper, sand the bottom part of the control horn as seen in the picture below.


Next locate all of your ball links and linkages, they should already be installed together from the factory. The four shortest ones are for your ailerons, the two medium sized ones are for your elevators, and the longest one is for you rudder.  Once everything is organized, slide the control horn plate in between the two control horns and screw in your ball links to the control horn. Use lock tight for the screws. Repeat this step to all of your control horns. Orel will be using the push-pull method in this build in order to get the servo feel he desires, though hardware is availavle for a pull-pull set-up if you prefer.


Now find and prep the control horn slots. For the control horns on the wings, the slots can be found underneath the servo bay on the aileron and a little to the side. Cut the slits open with a knife so that you can slide in the control horns later.

NOTE: The wing comes with the option to use three servos, however Orel will only be using two servos. The two spots Orel will use are the one that is furthest away from the cord of the wing and the one that is closest. He will not be using the middle servo slot.



Next slide in your control horns and cut the are around it with a sharp knife.


Using masking tape, mask the area around the control horn. This is so epoxy wont get on the covering when we glue in the control horn.


Remove the control horn and pull away the covering we cut earlier.


Now repeat these steps to all of the control surfaces.


At this point we can begin mixing our epoxy. Orel uses recommends using at least a 15 minute epoxy. Once the epoxy is mixed we can apply some onto the control surface itself and also on the control horn, on the side that is going to be inserted into the wing.


Now install the control horn. Once in place, use a paper towel that has been dampened with acetone and clean away the excess epoxy.


While the epoxy is still wet, peel away the masking tape and go over that area with a paper towel dampened with acetone. Repeat this step on all of the control surfaces.



Step 3: Main Landing Gear Install

Now locate your carbon fiber landing gear, wheel pants, gear cuffs, and landing gear accessory bag.


Slide the gear cuffs onto the landing gear, make sure its on the correct way. The front of the landing gear is the flat side, the rear is a bit tapered as you can see in the picture above. The right side of the gear in the picture is the front. The shortest part of the gear cuff should be in the front of the rear, the rear part of the cuff extends out a little bit more for looks. Do not glue in the cuffs yet!


Now screw in the axle into the carbon fiber landing gear. Make sure to put locktite on the threads of the axle!


Find all four of the wheel collars and take them out of the bag. Remove all of the set screws and lay them out on the table. Put locktite in all of the collars where the set screw goes in, this is a very important step! Without the locktite the set screws are bound to vibrate loose! Put the set screws into the collars but do not tighten all the way.


Now slide the collar onto he axle, but do not tighten it yet. Put the wheel pant where it is supposed to be in order to determine the distance between the collar and the axle. Once you have determined the proper distance for the collar to be, tighten the collar, slide on the wheel, slide on the other collar and tighten. Repeat the same steps for the other side. This kit like our others has the blind nuts pre-installed into the wheel pants for you! Orel, however, does not like putting the wheel pants on the landing gear just yet. This is because Orel does not want them to get scratched. So, for now, put in your bolts into the wheel pants and keep them in a safe place until he end.


At this point flip the airplane over to its underside, remove the gear cover, and test fit the main gear.


Once you have the landing gear in place, gather your four landing gear bolts and then slide the bolts through the gear cover plate.



Locate the four nuts and washers that are needed to install the lading gear and put some locktight on the threads.


Slide the screws in place through the bottom side of the air frame.


Put the nuts on and tighten.


Now move your gear cuffs to the desired location and put a few strips of masking tape on the bottom of the gear cuff.


Slide down the gear cuff and place some epoxy on the place where the gear cuff meets the landing gear.


Slide the gear cuff in place, remove the masking tape, and clean up excess epoxy.
Repeat these steps for both sides.


Step 4: Perpare & Install the Fuselage Hatch Panels

Remove the tape holding the hatch in the back as shown in the picture below.


Locate the wood screws that are meant to screw the hatch to the wood.

NOTE: In Orel’s build log, he did not cut away the covering in the hatches, but it is highly recommended to cut away the covering in the holes for proper air flow and cooling.


See the hatches installed without the slots cut.


Use the example below of the 78″ Extra 330 hatch pannel as a refference on how the slots should look.



Step 5: Install the Rudder & Tail Gear

First find the rod used as a pin for the rudder hinges and the collar attached to it.


Remove the collar, and line up the rudder, slide the pin though the rudder hinge slot.


Once you have slipped the rod through, put a collar on the bottom side of the rod that sticks out and lock tight the set screw.


Now locate your tail wheel assembly, springs, wood screw, and the three bolts supplied with the kit. The tail wheel is mostly pre-built so all you will need to do is bolt it on. This is just one of many pre-built steps that help you get your plane flying just a little bit faster!

NOTE: With all pre-built parts, it is highly recommended to inspect them carefully for any fitment that may need to be adjusted or tightened as parts may have shifted during shipment.


Slide the bolts into the tail wheel assembly and put locktit on the threads of all the bolts.


Bolt the tail wheel assembly in place


Now take both of the springs and bend the end about 270degrees.


Slide the bent part of the springs into the holes on the assembly.


Slide the bent piece into the spring.


Follow the same steps to three pronged mounting plate.


Pull until the springs have tension.


Now screw the three pronged mount into place.


Step 6: Installing Our Servos

Once the wing control horns have dried completely, we can now work on connecting and installing the servos. Remove the servo bays from the wings and remove the covering as shown in the picture below.


Attach the arms to your servos. For this build, Orel used the Hitec HSB-9380TH servo.


Bolt the servos into place.

NOTE: You may need to shave or cut a little wood off the mounting plate. Be sure the servo arm does not rub.


Locate the line in the servo bay to help run your servo extensions to the outside of the wing.


Tie one end to your servo extension.


Pull through the end. Repeat this step for both wing servos and for both wings.


Screw your servo bay in with the supplied wood screws, and connect your servo to the ball links, remember to use locktite. Repeat this step for both wings.




Now cut away the covering on the horizontal stabalizers where the servo arm will stick out of.


Bolt on your elevator servo, and connect your push rod to your servo arm. Remember to use locktite.



Cut the servo hole for the rudder and elevators.
The rudder servo location is directly under the elevators and the elevator servo locations are directly in front of the elevators on either side of the fuselage. On the right side of the fuselage inside the tail, there is a piece of string used to run the servo extensions through the fuselage.

NOTE: At the end, you will need to use a bit of grey covering that comes with the kit and cover up the right square so that it wont show up when you put the elevators on, but for building purposes it is necessary to cut this hole.


Run all of your servo extensions through this hole and tie them to the string as seen in the images below.



Pull extensions through the tube inside of the fuselage.


Step 7: Install the Fuel Tank

This is another area that is mostly done for you already. The kit comes standard with the Aerobeez Clear bottle fuel tank and has already been pre-plumbed! All you need to do is remember to remove the spare o-rings that come inside.


Then remove the covering from the little hole shown below, and screw in your fuel dot.



Now run your fuel lines to the necessary locations.


Step 8: Install the Engine

Tape your engine mounting template to the firewall. Make sure to line up the lines to he firewall.


Drill out the holes, and mount your engine. Remember to use locktite.


Install your throttle servo in the desired location and connect it to the engine.

NOTE: Placement of your throttle servo may vary slightly depending on motor weight and size.


Then cut the holes in your cowl by lining it up under your engine.


You are now complete with your Aerobeez 105″ Reaper Extra 330sc!



Center of Gravity [CG]:
Using a DLA-116cc engine with the rudder servo in the rear and a Gens Ace 3500mAh 2s RX pack strapped right behind the wing tube, Orel got the CG to balance right on the wing tube.

For 3D throws, Orel recommends starting off on the elevators and rudder at around 55degrees, and the ailerons at around 30degrees. Orel generally starts off with around 60% expo on the radio. Work your way from these measurements at roughly 5degree increments.

For low rates, Orel recommends setting everything at around 20degrees with around 50% expo and work your way from there at roughly 3degree increments.

Final Thoughts:
“Aerobeez did a real good job on designing this frame. This frame snaps clean, and tracks strait and true. For 3D it harriers rock solid and over all has the same good flying characteristics from its younger brothers.” -Orel Elbaz

 Happy Flying All!

If you have any questions, please ask!

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Thank you as always for reading our build blog and for your patronage and support.

Team Aerobeez

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