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Aerobeez 32″ Edge 540 EPP Foamie Build Log

Posted by aerobeez On August - 23 - 2016

32″ Edge 540 EPP Foamy Build Log

ARF-EPP-F-EG540-32-RD-blog

Hey Everyone! Welcome to the official build log for the NEW Aerobeez 32″ Edge 540 EPP Foamy ARF Kit!  This build log is put together by our Team Pilot Orel and will follow his specific setup and steps.

Orel’s Setup will be:
Motor: Turnigy 2204-14t
ESC: Turnigy 12amp esc
Prop: GWS 8×4.3
Battery: TP 325mah 3s
Servos: Hitec HS-56 for Ailerons & Futaba s3114 on tail

NOTE: (Orel ordered HS-45s to use but they did not come in time for the build)

Recommendations for Building

For Epp builds, Orel recommends using the glue that is supplied with the kit. Although it might seem like it drys fast, be sure to allow it to sit for a couple of hours before it is fully cured.

Orel also likes to lay everything out on the table before he begins. This is a great habbit to get into as a builder to make sure you have everything in order and ready. This also helps spot check for any potential damage that may have occured during shipping so you can resolve that as soon as possible. The kit comes with everything you need to complete the airframe all the way from the carbon fiber re-enforcement to the special glue needed to glue together the Epp parts.

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And now without further ado, onto the build!

Step 1

Locate your horizontal fuse piece.

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Now you want to gently push out where the tabs will be going through. Every thing is laser cut so a knife is not needed, your finger should do the trick, just push them
through!

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Repeat this on the elevator and wings. The elevator only has one little tab in the front and the wings have four tabs each toward the wing tips. The tabs on the wings are for your side-force generators. If you do not want to fly with side force generators, then do not remove the tabs in the wing.

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Step 2

Line up the wings and elevators to fuselage to make sure everything fits correctly. The connections are directional, so there is only one way the wings and elevator can be glued onto the fuselage.

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Step 3

Before we start gluing anything, lay down a piece of wax paper onto your work area. This is will help prevent getting glue or other debris on your work surface.

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Step 4

Press the horizontal stabilizer to the fuselage and mark on both ends where the connections end. This will help you when gluing.

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Using the marks we made as a guideline, run a thin bead of glue where the horizontal stabilizer and the fuselage meet each other with the glue that comes in the kit. CA is not recommended for this step.

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With a dry piece of paper towel, clean the excess glue that will seep out of the connections on both sides.

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Orel’s Recommendation:

Now we can wait a couple hours and allow the glue to dry before moving onto the next step. However, for a faster aproach for those that want to get into the air as soon as possible, you can use some masking tape to tape the 2 pieces together to hold them from separating so you can begin the next step.

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Step 5
Now using the same steps we used to glue the elevator, glue the wings to the fuse.

NOTE: Be very careful when gluing the wings, not to put any glue on the aileron part of the wing, that will be very hard and messy to remove later.

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Step 6

Next locate your carbon fiber strips and remove the square carbon fiber rod and move the rest of the rods aside for later.

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Test fit the carbon rod in the slot and make sure its fits nice and snug.

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To make sure you don’t get glue on anything that doesn’t need it,  mask off the sides of the slot so that nothing gets messy.

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Step  7

Carefully go down the slot with a thin bead of glue, you don’t need to over do it because the glue is very thick.

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Now once you put glue in the slot, you may place your carbon rod. I like to start pushing in from the edge and work my way down.

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Once the rod is in you may wipe away the excess glue.

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While the glue is still wet, remove the masking tape. This will insure that the tape does not get glued to the plane.

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With the tape removed, lightly clean the area over the rod again. Do not wipe to hard or the paint on the plane will fade.

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Going down the wing put some masking tape tightly crossing the wing spar in order to keep the wing spar from coming out.

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Now allow your plane to dry for about 2 hours before moving to the next step.

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Step 8

After the frame has had time to dry, locate the bottom part of the fuselage and test fit it. Remove any piece of masking tape that prohibits the pieces from fitting.

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Make sure the pieces fit flush and square all the way through the plane.

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Run a thin bead of glue going through the center line of the plane.

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Now place the bottom part of the fuse on the plane. I like to start from the nose and move my way down to the tail.

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Once the fuse is glued wipe away any excess glue.

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As the glue is drying make sure the fuse is square and strait. Orel likes to use a few servo boxes to help keep the plane square. At this point allow the plane to dry for another 1-2 hours.

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Once the plane is dry, you can remove all masking that has been done to the plane.

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Step 9

Locate your landing gear pieces. They are the two flat pieces of carbon that come in the kit.

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Poke out the slot in the fuse (seen below) for the landing gears, and slide the carbon piece through. Stick the carbon in the slot in the horizontal nose of the plane that has an arrow above it (as seen in the image below). Repeat this for the other gear rod.

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Once they are both in place, use CA to glue together the carbon rods where they cross.

CAUTION: Do not glue them to the foam with the CA!

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Using the glue that comes with the kit, tack some glue where the carbon meets the foam.

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Make sure the plane is still square and allow the landing gear to dry.

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Step 10

Ok, now that we have successfully glued in the landing gear rods we can begin gluing in the carbon fiber struts. Remove one of the rods to begin with.

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Now cut two pieces four inches in length. This will be your nose strut.

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Glue one side of the rod to the landing gear and the other side on the white dot located on the very tip of the plane. Repeat this step on both sides of the plane.

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Now cut two pieces approximately 4.5″ in length. Stick one end into where the landing gear is and the other end into the white dot on the fuselage. Repeat this to both sides of the plane. Make sure not to glue the rods in the fuselage yet. We will do it at the end to make sure the plane is nice and square.

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Cut two pieces of rod about 6.5″ in length. Stick one side in the center of the fuse and the other rod in the white circle near the end of the aileron. Make sure that when the carbon rods touch each other you cross the ends over a little bit for some added support. Repeat this step for both sides of the air frame. Again, do not glue the rods to the verticle fuse until the end.

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Refer to the picture below as an example of crossing over the rods.

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Cut two pieces 6 1/4″ in length. Stick one crossing over the last rod and the other approximately half way between the tail and the elevator. Repeat this step on both sides.

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Now cut two rods reaching from the last carbon rod to the front of the elevator where the white dot is. Repeat this step on both sides.

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Cut two pieces approximately 4 3/4″ and stick them in both sides of the elevator as shown in the picture.

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Moving our way back up to the wing cut four pieces approximately 6 1/4″. Stick one side in the center of the fuselage and the other on the wing where the 2 dots are located.

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Step back from the plane and insure everything is square before we begin the final dabs of glue.

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Once you made sure the plane is square, everywhere you see the carbon fiber crossing each other, glue them together with CA.

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Now put some of the glue that is supplied with the kit over all of the joints to glue the carbon to the foam.

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Allow your plane to dry for at least two hours. Any disruption to do so will result in a crooked airplane.

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Step 11
Find your carbon fiber hardware and remove these four wing supports shown in the picture below.

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On the bottom of the plane you will find some slits that have already been cut out for you.

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Clean up the area so that these wing supports will slide in from the top with no problem and be flush with the rest of the wing.

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Mask the area around the wing support, place some of the glue supplied with the kit over the slit and slide in the wing support. With a paper towel rub off the excess glue. Repeat this process to all four wing supports.

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While the glue is still wet carefully remove the masking tape and clean the excess glue. (As you can see, Orel was not as careful as he could be resulting in the paint peeling)

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Step 12

Now cut out your control horns out of the carbon fiber hardware sheet.

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Use the longer control horns for the ailerons. Locate where the slit is for them on the aileron and glue them in using the same procedure we used to glue in the wing struts.

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The two short control horns will be used on the tail surfaces. Find the pre cut slits on the elevator and rudder and glue them in the same way we glued in the wing supports. The elevator slit should be located on the “pilots” right side, and the rudder slit should be in the “pilots” left side. Now allow about one hour for these to dry before moving onto the next step.

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Step 13

Now we can begin installing our electronics.

NOTE: Do not install the arm yet, it is actually installed backwards in this picture, thats what happens when you build a plane at 2am! :)

Slide in your aileron servo and cut away any foam that prohibits you to do so.

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Now temporarily slide in the top fuselage piece to make sure very thing fits.

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Once you have made sure the servo fits nicely, glue it in place and wipe away the excess glue.

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Following the same process used to glue in the aileron servo and glue in the elevator and rudder servos.

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Locate your aileron servo arm and the two screws that are supplied with the kit.

 

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Electronically center your servo and put the arm in this direction. (The other direction that was a mistake seen earlier will not give you the proper servo geometry)

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Now find the two thick carbon rods that come in the kit. These will be your aileron push rods. CA the Z-bends that are supplied in the kit to the carbon fiber push rods, then cut a small piece of the heat shrink that is supplied with the kit and slide it over where the Z-bend and the push rod meet.

Then take a lighter or other heat source and shrink it over as shown in the picture below.

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Find the piece shown in the picture above and screw it onto the servo arm in this manner. Orel likes to put some CA on the nut to keep it from coming off.
NOTE: You could also use blue thread lock to hold the nut.

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Slide your push rods into the aileron servo horn, cut to the desired length, and screw in place.

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Step 14

Now cut these out of your carbon hardware kit. These will ensure that he elevator and rudder push rods don’t flex under stress.

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Slide them into the slits where the stars are located, and slide a push rod through to make sure the wholes line up strait.

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Follow the same steps to install these for the rudder. Now glue them all in place. And allow about one hour for the glue to dry.

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Now install the push rod on the elevator side the same way we did on the ailerons.

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Now center your elevator servo, cut the push rod to the desired length and put the Z-bend on the elevator servo side.

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Install the Z-bend on the rudder side.

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Step 15

Now we can glue the top fuselage piece to the rest of the air frame. Run a thin bead of glue down the center line of the aircraft.

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Make sure the fuse is square and wipe away the excess glue.

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Make sure to glue the tail connection as well.

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Once the top of the frame is glued together and dried, cut the rudder push rod to the desired length and glue on the Z-bend to the push rod.

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Step 16

Find your motor mount and four screws that are supplied with the Turnigy 2204-14t Motor.

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Screw your motor to the motor mount.

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Make sure the nose is squared and then glue the motor mount to the frame.

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Use masking tape to hold the motor in place while it is drying.

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Cut two carbon rods approximately 6 1/4″ in length.

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Then glue these rods on the rudder and elevator where the markers show.

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Step 17

Find the white landing gear connector and cut it in half, then find the two short carbon rods that come in the bag with the kit.

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Glue them all together with CA in the configuration shown below.

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Slide on the wheels and make sure it spins freely.

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Find the two wheel pants holders and slide them over the end of the carbon fiber out side of the wheel and CA them in place.

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Put some glue on the wheel pant holders and glue on the wheel pants.

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Now install your receiver. Orel velcroed the receiver right on the CG of the plane in order to keep everything as neutral as possible.

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Next put the battery on the nose, and test the balance of the plane by pinching the frame just over the wing spar. If it stays level the plane is balanced.

NOTE: Orel finds this to be the best starting point for the CG (may be altered depending on flying style).

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Now your plane is complete! If you choose to fly with the side force generators simply use the tabs on the wings as a reference and glue them on, its as simple as that!

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Orel’s Final Thoughts

“Personally I have flown it with and without the side force generators and I found that it fly’s best with them on.”

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Happy Flying All!

If you have any questions, please ask!

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Thank you as always for reading our build blog and for your patronage and support.

Team Aerobeez

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