Hey everyone and welcome to our new build guide for the limited edition 64″ MXS-R in Matte White, Red, and Black color scheme. This Step by Step build is brought to you by our Aerobeez Team member Brian Chenoweth! This model is built for 20cc gas engine, but for this build Brian has decided to go with an electric set-up.


Motrofly 4320-450kv (2200 watts)
Hobbywing platinum 100A (swapped out the Gecko 85A)
Three standard servos for ailerons and rudder
Two mini servos for the elevators
Falcon 18×8 electric prop

Before Getting started, take all of the parts out of the box and organize them so you can check for potential damage or missing items.



Step 1: Wing Build

Use CA glue on your fiber hinges.


Then cut a small strip from extra covering and seal the hinge gaps.


Now we can move onto installing the linkage.

Start with the preparing the horn. Lightly sand the portion of the horn that goes into the surface to get a strong bond.

Next we need to find the hole in the surface for the horn, cat a small slot to allow the horn to fit inside.

After cutting the slot you can now insert the horn the the support bracket, after you’ve done this you will need to trace and cut the outline of the bracket.

The horn can be glued in with medium CA

The final step to finishing the wings is installing the rod.

Now that the linkage and horns are set, mount your aileron servos into both the left and right wings.

NOTE: The servos were a little tall for the wing. There was a slight bulge on the top, inserted a small 3mm washer as a spacer, took care of the problem. 

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Alternatively, the Aerobeez 64″ MXS-R comes with supplied spacer mounts for the smaller servos.

To use the servo mounts simply trace over the servo slot and cut inside the outline, these can be glued with medium CA.

Finished aileron control.

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Step 2: Tail Assembly

Spacers come blank so Brian used the spare covering included to match the side of the plane.

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Spacers for mini servos installed. The plane comes with slots cut for standard servos, but Brian choose to use mini’s for the elevator so he installed the spacers as seen here.

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Rough up the control horns like we did for the wing before gluing in.

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Prep with painters tape to epoxy the control horn in. Do this for both sides of the elevator and for the rudder and allow time for the epoxy to set.

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Split the pre-installed pull-pull system to either side and insert the horzontal stab to the fuse.

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Once the stab is centered, set-up the hinges. The hinges are not pre-installed, so both sides need to be glued in. First insert the hinge into the horizontal stabalizer as seen here.

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Then insert a T-pin into the fiber hinges. This way you can just press the two halves together and get the perfect gap. Once the two sides are pushed together apply a few drops of thin CA to the hinge.

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Now install the elevator servo and control linkage to the elevator horn.

NOTE: Be sure you have allowed enough time for the epoxy used on the controll horn to set-up and create a solid bond.

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Finished Tail controls.

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Now set-up the pull-pull servo and the other end of the pre-installed pull-pull wire and ball joints.

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Finished pull-pull servo set-up.


While inside the fuse, Brian also took the time to instal a small piece of ply-wood as a mounting plate for his electronics.


Step 3: Installing the Landing Gear

Collect the wheels and the package with the axles.

Put both of the wheels together with the left and right axel as seen here.

The landing gear on this plane is fairly large. Definitely larger than a typical 60″ class gear. Doesn’t seem to add any noticeable weight penalty in the air, looks rather cool, makes the plane look bigger than it actually is.

Now space the wheels and axel inside the wheel pants and mount to the carbon fiber gear.


Once that axel is secure, drill pilot holes for the screws.

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Finished main gear, perfectly level.


Now remove the landing gear panel under the front of the fuse and mount the landing gear.

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Replace the landing gear cover for a clean finish.


Now we move to the tail gear. Brian chose to use the Upgraded Carbon Fiber Tail Gear found in the replacement parts section for the 20cc MXS-R.


Uses a spring as a guide instead of the tiller. Pull the spring to where it has acceptable tension and then secure it with the screw.


Completed tail gear set-up.


Step 4: Motor Mount and Cowl Install

The Motrofly Motor comes with a template. Just center the with the center line on the fire wall and the hole on the template with the hole in the firewall. Then tape in place. and drill pilot holes for the standoff.

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Now drill pilot holes for the standoff.

NOTE: The tape on the underside of the template helps keep the drill from walking on the slick carbon fiber firewall.

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Motor installed. Brian had standoffs custom made for his build. However, Extreme Flight makes a set of standoffs that would work fine for this application for those of you that migth want an already made solution.

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Brian also added a quarter inch nylon bushing to the standoffs as , the original measurments were off slightly. He then glued on a piece of ply to the right side of the motor box.

This allows for the ESC to be in a more forward mount position putting it right in front of the vent hole in the cowl.


Now to mount the cowl in the usual way. It’s not a ringed cowl so you’ll have to get it all lined up yourself.


Once you have it all lined up, tape the cowl into place with the tape you pre-marked for the holes and drill the holes. There are blind nuts installed so you’ll use the 3mm machine screws to mount.


3 inch spinner and Falcon 19×8 electric prop installed.

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Now your are ready to fly!

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MXS 3-1

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CG Position & Control Throws:

With control throws, please adjust them as shown in Diagram One below. These throws are good for the maiden flight. Please make any adjustments accordingly to your own personal flying style.

Now for C.G., the ideal maiden flight C.G. position is 120mm (4.72 in) behind the leading edge (Refer to Diagram One below). This is measured back from the leading edge at the wing root (where the wing meets the fuse). Please adjust accordingly to your own personal flying style and set-up.


Brian’s CG Notes: CG is neutral at center to back of the wing tube, I balanced it there with the canopy off. Place my 6S 4000 battery toward the back of the tray. I set up my ailerons with about 5 degrees more travel than I usually use to compensate for the wingtips slowing the roll rate, seemed to be perfect as it rolled just about the same as all my other planes. The plane felt great right from the get go, I made no changes to the setup.

Maiden Flight Report:

“Maiden flight went great, was able to get a handful of flights on it. The plane flies really nice, only needed a single click of up elevator. The Motrofly motor had plenty of power, not crazy power, the more scale power I prefer. Seems to be a good all around flyer, not a crazy 3D plane but is certainly up to the challenge, hovers well and does nice easily controlled rolling harriers, the rudder is very powerful! It seems to excel at smooth precise flying, snaps are easy to control and it flies KE dead straight with no mixing. The plane has a lot of side area, needs very little rudder for KE flight. I just found the plane to be a real pleasure to fly, seemed to so do everything I threw at it in a nice controlled manner. I’ve flown a lot of 60″ size planes and there seems to be something different about this plane, I have no idea what  it is.”

-Brian Chenoweth

Final Thoughts:

“For someone who wants a plane that presents a little bigger than a typical 60″ and is still easy to transport, this would be a good choice. The matte color scheme is a good conversation starter at the field I had many members come to check it out, it really is a pretty plane.”

-Brian Chenoweth

with plane

We hope that you enjoyed our build log on our 64″ MXS-R. Now go get out there and fly it!

Team Aerobeez

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