Aerobeez 71″ Extra 330 Step by Step Build Guide

Posted by aerobeez On October - 2 - 2014

Hello Aerobeez Pilots and welcome to our 71″ Extra 330 Build Guide! As with our previous build guides this guide will walk you through step by step as you build your new 71″ Extra 330 ARF Kit. Having experience with putting an ARF together is good, but with our guide even an inexperienced builder should be able to put this kit together in about 10-12 hours. Look for “Pete’s Tip’s” and our notes that will help walk you through this build like a seasoned pro. 

This build log is Pete’s personal build steps.  You may choose to build in different steps if you have a personal build preference.

Now lets get started building!

Step 1:  We will start the build by first constructing the landing gear.  Locate the parts for the main landing gear and lay it out on a flat surface.  The parts needed to build the main landing gear may be in 2 separate parts bags.


Step 2: Notice the carbon landing gear is tapered on one side.  The straight side is facing the front of Extra 330.


Step 3: Separate the wheel collars and axle nut from the main axle.


Step 4: Install the axle to the carbon fiber landing gear.

Pete’s Tip:  If you have a “skate tool” the multi tool used for skateboards, the wheel nut side of the tool is perfect size for the axle nut.



Step 5:  Use a drop of Blue thread lock on the wheel collar set screws and install the main wheel with one wheel collar on each side.  Do not tighten the wheel collars.  The wheel collar gaps will need to be adjusted once the wheel pants are installed.

Pete’s Tip:  Keep the set screw side of the wheel collar facing down as shown in the photos.  This will give you the best position to reach the collar set screw once the wheel pants are installed.





Step 6: Have the wheel pants ready for installation. The blind nuts are pre-installed for you.



Step 7: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on the wheel pant screws.  Install the wheel pants.


Step 8: Wheel pants installed.



Step 9: Locate the 4 bolts with the lock nuts to install the main landing gear to the fuselage.


Step 10: Install the lock nuts.

Pete’s Tip:  If you have a difficult time reaching the landing gear bolts on the inside of the fuselage, use a small piece of blue tape, or any house hold tape.  Roll it over and stick the tape to your finger tip.  Then stick the lock nut to the tape.  This will make starting the bolt to the nut sequence much easier.


Step 11:  Landing gear installed.



Step 12: Your Extra 330 on landing gears.


Step 13:  Wick the motor box.

Pete’s Tip:  Use thin or medium CA and “wick” the CA into the motor box sides where all the wood connects.  Medium CA is better for the inside of the motor box.  This CA works best for “wicking”.



Step 14: Use a drop of house hold oil on the pivot hinges for the rudder.  This will keep the pivot from getting glued during the rudder installation.

Pete’s Tip:  If you do not have any house hold oil, a drop of cooking oil or even motor oil will work fine.


Step 15: Epoxy is the glue of choice when installing the rudder.  Be sure to glue the pivot hinges to one side of the rudder FIRST.  Let it fully cure before gluing to the vertical stabilizer.


Step 16:  Locate the tail wheel assembly.  Located in 2 or 3 separate bags.


Step 17:  Install the nut and the tail wheel guide shown in this photo.


Step 18: Use a drop of Blue thread lock on all the set screws used.


Step 19: Tail wheel assembly complete.


Pete’s Tip:  There will be some vertical “slop” in the tail wheel assembly.  This does not affect the performance or function of the tail wheel.  If you are picky like Pete,  you can add either a extra wheel collar if you have one, or cut a small section of the Tygon fuel tube and place it in the area as shown in this photo.  This will remove all the vertical movement.

Step 20: Use a small tip marker and mark the position the tail landing gear assembly will mount to the rear of the fuselage.


Step 21:  This step is an option.  Pete like to use a 1/16 drill bit to drill the 3 pilot holes for the tail wheel assembly.  The screws provided are self tapping screws and can be directly screwed into the fuselage without pilot holes.


Step 22: Install the tail wheel assembly to the fuselage.


Step 23: Locate the tail wheel rod guide.  Drill and install the tail wheel rod guide and rod.





Step 24:  Your Extra 330 on main and tail landing gear.




Step 25:  Test fit your rudder servo of choice into the rudder servo bay inside of the fuselage.


Step 26:  Drill 1/16 pilot holes for the rudder servo.


Pete’s Tip:  Use a drop of thin CA in each of the drilled servo screw pilot holes.  This will give the servo screws much higher strength to wood hold ratio.  This pilot hole and CA wicking step should be used for all the servo installs on this Extra330.  Allow the CA to completely cure before installing the servo screws.


Step 27:  Rudder servo installed.  Use a rudder pull pull arm of your choice.


Step 28:  Locate the control surface arms.  The pull/pull application for the rudder control surface arms will need to be cut 2 step tabs shorter as shown on the marks in this photo.


Step 29:  Locate the pre-cut slots for the control surface horns.


Pete’s Tip:  Use your finger and press in the general area with some pressure.  This will reveal the slots.  Use a sharp hobby knife and remove the covering.


Step 30:  Use sandpaper or a electric rotary tool and “scuff” the area to be glued on the control surface horns.  This “scuffing” should be applied to all the control surface horns.  This will provide a stronger horn to surface bond.


Step 31:  Use Epoxy and glue the control surface horns to the rudder.



Step 32:  Locate the parts for the rudder pull/pull cables.  The parts may be in separate bags.


Step 33:  Install the threaded rods to ball ends as shown here.  Do not over tight the rod at this time.  Leave plenty of thread for adjusting the pull/pull cable length.


Step 34: Use a piece of blue tape or masking tape and tape the rudder to the vertical stabilizer.  This will prevent the pull/pull cables from being cut and crimped in the wrong length.


Step 35: Use a long stick and tape one side of the pull/pull cable to the front of the stick.



Pete’s Tip:  Make sure the cable has a “curl” at the tip.  Use a flexible wood rod or a carbon rod for running the cable through to the rear slot in the fuselage.


Step 36: Install one of the pull/pull cable ball ends as shown here.  Make sure the crimps are on the cable in the configuration shown here.  A crimping tool is not necessary for the crimps.  Use a strong pair of pliers or Pete’s tool of choice are a good pair of Vice Grips.




Step 37: One side of the pull/pull cable connection complete.


Step 38: Turn on your radio system and center your rudder servo and arm before crimping the cable on the servo side.  When you are satisfied with the cable tension, crimp the cable in place.


Step 39: Pull/Pull cables for the rudder completed.



Step 40: Installing metal screw inserts for servos.

Pete’s Tip: This is a common mistake even experienced modelers make.  Notice the metal inserts for the servo are inserted from the bottom of the rubber servo grommet. One side of the insert is “flared”.  The other side is just cylindrical.  Many modelers install this insert with the flare side on top.  Installing in that insert configuration will cause the insert to “dig” into the wood when the servo screw is tightened.  Installing with the flare side underneath will give a solid screw to servo mount.


Step 41: Using the same method as for the rudder, locate the slots on the elevator for the control surface horns and mark the location.


Step 42: Cut the covering away for the control surface horns.


Step 43: Scuff the control surface horns and using epoxy, glue the horns to the elevator.



Step 44: The elevator servo bays are pre-cut for a mini sized servo.  If you are going to fly hard 3D, we suggest  enlarging the servo bay for a standard size servo.


Step 45: Elevator servo installed.


Step 46:  Locate the 4 screws with washers and rubber washers.  Locate the horizontal stabilizer carbon tube and install the horizontal stabilizer.  The blind nuts are pre-installed.

Pete’s Tip:  Although rubber washers are used with the screws, it is still best to use a drop of Blue thread lock.  Be cautious when lining up the screw with the hole in the fuselage.  Use very little pressure when screwing.  We don’t want to pop the blind nut loose.




Step 47: Install the ball linkage ends on the elevator pushrod.

Note: One side of the pushrod is REVERSE Threads.  This is provided for adjusting the pushrod length without removing the pushrod from the aircraft.  The is the same for the aileron pushrods.


Step 48: Use a piece of blue tape or masking tape and tape the elevator in the neutral position to the horizontal stabilizer.  This will help greatly in setting the neutral push rod length to the control surface.


Step 49: Pushrod installed to the elevator.

Pete’s Tip:  Once your servo is centered, you can now adjust the pushrod length to the elevator by grabbing the center of the pushrod with a pair of pliers and turning the pushrod either counter clockwise or clockwise to achieve a 0 degree neutral elevator.


Step 50:  Mark your firewall for the engine of your choice and drill the holes needed for your engine stand offs, throttle pushrod and fuel line.  For our build, we are using a DLE35RA.


Step 51:  If you are using a DLE35RA, a portion of the motor box will need to be cut down to fit the exhaust as seen in this step.


Step 52: DLE35RA mounted.


Step 53: Choke lever position

Pete’s Tip: Use a permanent marker and mark the position of the choke lever of your engine choice on the inside of the cowling.  This will assist greatly when starting the engine.


Step 54:  The throttle servo by is not pre-installed due to the variety of engines on the market.  Test fit your throttle servo in the bay and find a position where you r servo pushrod will line up best with the carburetor.  Using epoxy, glue the throttle servo bay in position and install the servo once fully cured.





Step 55: The ignition mounting are will be personal preference.  Pete chose to mount it to the  bottom of the motor box.  Be sure to use a piece of foam to isolate the ignition box.  This will keep the vibrations from possibly affecting the ignition.


Step 56: Mark the fuel tank for the proper fuel lines and run your fuel lines.

Pete’s Tip:  Use a small zip tie at the nozzle tips.  On the fuel tank and the carburetor.  This will keep the fuel line from coming off during motor vibrations.




Step 57: Installing the cowl for proper cowl fitment.  The holes in the cowl are not pre-drilled due to the different engine choices.  The cowl tabs and blind nuts are installed.  We will now drill the holes for the cowl.  Using blue tape or masking tape, apply 2 strips over the cowl tabs.


Step 58: Use a flashlight and mark the center area of the blind nut hole per each tap of both sides of the cowl.



Step 59: Now pull back the tape without removing the tape from the fuselage.  Test the cowl fitment.  Have someone help you in this step will give you the best results.


Step 60: Once you have the desired cowl position and motor to propeller gap, press the tape on to the cowl.  You now have the area to drill the holes for the cowl screws.


Step 61:  Peal back the tape leaving it on cowl.  Now drill the holes for the cowl screws.



Pete’s Tip:  The cowl screw holes can be drilled a bit larger.  This will give you some wiggle room for a better cowl fitment.

Step 62:  Remove the covering from the aileron bay and the aileron control surface slots.  Test fit your servo of choice and drill pilot holes.  Wick a drop of CA into the holes and let cure before installing the servo.




Step 63: Scuff the aileron control surface horns if you have not already.  Epoxy the aileron control surface horns into place.



Step 64:  Use a piece of blue tape or masking tape and tape the aileron to the main wing in the 0 degree position.  Center yourservo and prepare to install the pushrod.



Step 65:  Install the ball ends to the aileron pushrods.

Note: One side of the pushrod is REVERSE Threads.  This is provided for adjusting the pushrod length without removing the pushrod from the aircraft.



Step 66:  Aileron pushrod installed. Once your servo is centered, you can now adjust the pushrod length to the elevator by grabbing the center of the pushrod with a pair of pliers and turning the pushrod either counter clockwise or clockwise to achieve a 0 degree neutral aileron.



Note: Use Diagram below as a reference for manual calculation.



Note: Always perform a pre-flight check. Range test your aircraft and make sure ALL the control surfaces are moving in the correct direction!

Congratulations!  Your Extra 330 build is complete!  Have fun, and enjoy flying your Extra 330.








Proper Propeller Drilling:

When using a propeller drilling jig such as the Miracle Prop Jig available at Aerobeez, always drill from the back side of the propeller.


Once you have the first hole drilled, use one of your engine’s prop bolts and insert it into the first hole drilled.  This will assist greatly in keeping the prop jig from moving out of position.


Follow the same steps as above and insert a second propeller bolt once the second hole has been drilled.  Continue with the remaining holes.


Retrofitting for Standard Size Elevator Servos:

If you are going to be flying 3D, we suggest cutting the servo bay to utilize a standard sized servo.  The steps are very simple.  Hold your standard sized servo of your choice above the provided servo bay.  Use a sharp tip marker and trace the bottom of the servo perimeter.  Using a cutting tool of your choice, enlarge the bay to fit your servo.  Once the bay size has been achieved, drill pilot holes for the servos and install your servo.



Thank you once again for reading our Aerobeez Step-by-Step Build Guide and for your purchase! Control surface deflections are a personal preference in your flying style. For unlimited 3D, please use the surface throw in MAXIMUM deflection before surface bind. Your Aerobeez team is available for any technical questions. Please feel free to email us at any time. Aerobeez appreciates your patronage! Now go fly, enjoy your air time with your new 71″ Extra 330!

Your Hobby, Our Passion!


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