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Aerobeez 78″ Extra 330 Raiden ELECTRIC Step-By-Step Build Guide

Posted by aerobeez On December - 1 - 2016

Aerobeez 78″ Extra 330 Raiden Electric Build Guide

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Hey Everyone! Welcome to our Step By Step ELECTRIC build log for the NEW 78″ Extra 330 Raiden. We have our Step-By-Step GAS build guide as well as the Electric Motor/ESC Install, but we want to walk you through the full process of building this model for Electric. We put alot of effort into R&D on this model and used both our experience with the prototype and feedback from our loyal fans to deliver one of the most stunning 3D monsters this year for our 35-55c class. Like previous models, you will notice that the 78″ Raiden has been pre-hinged on all surface areas with exception to the rudder. This helps reduce your build time, but we still recommend that every builder takes the time to spot check all surfaces and apply extra glue when needed.

All steps in this build have been brought to you by our very own team member, Brian Chenoweth.

Brian’s Setup:
Motrofly 5327-195kv http://www.subsonicplanes.com/Motrolfly_Motors.html
Jeti Mezon 115A Opto Controller
Falcon 22×10 wood electric prop
Hitec HS-5585MH HV Monster Torque servos
Jeti R9 reciever
Bavarian Demon Cortex

Pre-Build Recommendations:

Before we start building, be sure to have some lock-tight or blue thread locker. Gather all of your tools and take inventory of the parts in the box.

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All the parts individually packaged with labels, wing, rudder, elevator. Main wheels have aluminum hubs and the tail wheel design is solid!

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Now, onto the build!

Section 1: Wing Setup and Servo Install

Note: Brian likes to start all of his builds with the wings. You can choose to start with another area if you prefer, but for this guide, this is where we begin.

Ailerons are all pre-hinged with flat Dubro nylon hinges so the first step is to seal the hinge gap. Brian used the white covering that is provided in the kit, though you could also use 3M Blenderm tape as an alternative solution. Once you cut the covering for each gap, iron it into place.

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Now to run the servo leads. Break off the tab to provide the pull-string through the wing.

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Then add your 12-15 inch servo extension cable to the servo lead. Once installed, tie the thread that is attached to the tab you broke.

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Now break the tab off at the base of the wing and pull the lead through.

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Once the lead is pulled through, seat the servo into the servo slot and pre-drill screw holes with a 1/16th drill bit. Repeat this step for each Servo as you get to them.

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After the servos have been prepared, find the slots on your wing, and cut them open.

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Before you mount the control horns with epoxy, be sure to rough them up with sandpaper or an exacto blade. This will create a stronger bond once mounted.

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Now seat the horns without epoxy and score the covering around them with your exacto blade.

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 Now remove the horns and peal away the skin from the mounting slots.

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Mask around the area with blue painters tape, apply 30 minute epoxy to the area, and then re-seat the horns with mounting plate.

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Repeat these steps for each wing and the elevator when ready and allow 30 minutes for the epoxy to dry. Once all the control horns dry, mount your push-rods to the servo arms and control horns like you see here.

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Section 2: Rudder Setup with Pull-Pull Servo Mount

Seat your rudder servo into the provided slot inside the fuse and pre-drill with 1/16th drill bit.

NOTE: For this build we want more weight toward the front of the model for proper CG balance. If you choose a heavier motor for your build, there is a push/pull servo location at the back of the fuse near the rudder.

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Now, locate you pull/pull opening at the back of the fuse and run the cables down from the pull/pull servo through the fuse and out. Once you have pulled the cables through and set them up with proper tension, you can then recover the hole in the fuse with some extra black repair skin that is provided in the kit.

NOTE: Be sure to leave a hole for the wires to travel smoothly.

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Mount the carbon fiber tail wheel assembly with three screws, blind nuts are installed in the fuselage.

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Now find your rudder and use the blue painters tape to protect it from the epoxy.

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Then coat the hinge lines of each of the flat hinges with Vaseline. This is done to prevent excess epoxy from gluing the hinge and binding the movement of the joint/hinge.

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Once the hinges have all been preped, fill the slots on the rudder with 30 minute epoxy and slide the hinges into place.

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Now mask off the verticle stab.

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Fill slots liberally with 30 minute epoxy and insert rudder fully into hinge.

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Tape rudder in place while epoxy cures.

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Once the epoxy has had time to fully cure on the rudder hinge, turn the model over to finish the tail wheel mount. The tail wheel assembly makes use of a single spring as a guide, it’s a very simple yet effective design. Pull the spring to a satisfactory tension and then secure it with a single self-tapping wood screw.  Aslo install the pull/pull cables to each side of the rudder at this point.

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Section 3: Elevator & Servos

Now locate the elevator servo slots. Tie both elevator extensions together so they can be run through the provided tunnel in the fuselage. There is string installed at both ends just like on a wing.

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Use the string to pull the servo wires through.

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Now seat both servos into their servo bay and bolt them in.

Brian’s Building Note: He always prefers to use hex head self tapping screws from RTL.

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Now, if you installed the controll horns earlier while working on your wings, perfect, but if you did not, then do that now using the same method as the wings. Then slide the elevator halves into place.

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Once the elevators or mounted, install the push rods on both sides.

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A pair of 3mm socket head screws secure the halves in place. Notice the placement of the elevator servos, as this is how they should look when ready.

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Section 4: Main Landing Gear

Install axle. Make sure to slide on the land gear fairings first.

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Install the wheels, a wheel collar goes on both sides to help align the wheel.

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Slide the wheel pant in place and secure with the 3mm socket heads screws. The blind nuts are pre-installed.

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Completed landing gear.

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Now flip the airplane fuselage over and remove the gear cover. Put Locktite in each of the blind nut holes.

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Mount the landing gear.

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Glue the landing gear cover in place. We recommend using Epoxy for this step, though you may choose to use Epoxy or CA.

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Section 5: Motor & ESC Install

Motor: DM-5327 from Ken at Subsonic Planes wound to 195Kv for a 22×10 prop

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Standoffs: Extreme Flight Motor Standoffs from Tim at Northwest RC.

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NOTE: These are the extra large set, but they still came up 5mm short. I had to pull out a couple of the small sizing sections and add in a half inch nylon spacer. 

Step 1: Motor Template

Brian made a template from the motors x-mount. Once the mount is drawn and cut, tape over it with masking tape to hold it in place and keep your drill bit from traveling on the slick carbon fiber firewall.

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Step 2: Standoffs

Now install the standoffs. For this set-up Brian used the Extreme Flight motor standoffs. They are easily adjustable to get the right length.

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Back of the standoffs have a nice solid machined aluminum washer.

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Step 4: Install the Motor

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Step 5: Trim the Cowl

The bell housing on the DM-5327 Electric Motor was rubbing slightly, so we needed to enlarge the hole in the cowl slightly.

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NOTE: With other electric motors this step may or may not be needed. Always test fit make sure that fitment is clean with no rubbing and only cut/trim if neccessary.

Step 6: Mount ESC

Due to the electric motors light weight, Brian wanted to get as much weight forward as possible. He also wanted the controller to be directly inline with the cowl opening for good cooling. With these goals in mind, he decided to construct a mount for the Mezon Controller with some stock plywood.

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Secure the plywood into the place you want to mount and then drill pilot holes through the plywood and the carbonfiber motor box. Once the holes are drilled, bolt your plywood piece into place.

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Now bolt the Mezon ESC into the desired position on the mount board.

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Section 6: Finishing Touches

Glue in some 1/8 inch ply to help support the twin 6S battery pack set-up that Brian recomends for this build.

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Install a platform to mount the RX and Gyro.

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 Test CG with the 6S 4000 batterie setup. They mount about a half inch from the firewall for correct CG on this build. RX pack is a 2S 2100 battery mounted on the rear of the battery platform.

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Brian’s TIPS:

CG:
The plane balanced at the rearward SFG screw at the wingtips, it was perfectly neutral which is how Brian sets up his planes. This can be adjusted depending on flying style and personal preferance.

Throws:
For 3D throws start off on the elevators and rudder at around 55degrees, and the ailerons at around 30degrees. When adjusting, work your way from these measurements at roughly 5degree increments.

For low rates set everything at around 20degrees with around 50% expo and work your way from there at roughly 3degree increments.

Brian’s Final Thoughts:
“Plane flies great, light on the wing but not too floaty, I feel like it’s designed to be a compromise between the old school low and slow and the XA type aerobatics. Being an Extra is also excels at precision flying. Getting close to 5 minutes on the twin 6S 4000 packs. Very pleased with how this plane turned out, looks great and flies great.” – Brian

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Happy Flying All!

If you have any questions, please ask!

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Thank you as always for reading our build blog and for your patronage and support.

Team Aerobeez

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