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Aerobeez 78″ Slick 540 Typhoon Build Log

Posted by aerobeez On March - 1 - 2016

SLICK-540-35CC

 

Hello friends and fans! Welcome to our build log for the Aerobeez 78″ Slick 540 Typhoon. This is the newest addition to our Aerobeez fleet and let’s just say, it is as impressive inside as it is on the outside. Pulling ideas and feedback we have received from our Pro-Pilots as well as customers, this model has taken what you have seen in the 91″ Slick 540 and scaled it down into a killer mid-size class model.

Specs:

Wing Span: 78″
Length: 80.5″(without the spinner)
Wing Area: 1129.952sq. in (72.9 sq. )
Fly Weight:12.35-14.33 lbs. (5600-6500g) Depending on motor

Build Specifics:

Engine: DA50 with stock muffler (mainly to keep the nose light)
Prop: Falcon 22×10 but for the maiden we will use Xoar22x10 as the falcon hasn’t showed up yet.
Spinner: will most likely be a Mejzlik 3.5″
Servos: Hitec HSB-9380TH with Secraft 1.25″ servo arms.
Single Thunder Power RC 3800mAh 7.4V RX pack.

Throughout this build log, we will provide a few tips and tricks that our pilots like to do on all of their planes.

Santiagos Tip:
“Before getting started on any build, I always like to pull the fuse out of the box to stare at it and make sure it didn’t arrive damaged. The kit is well boxed and defiantly packed to survive the brutal shipping companies.”

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A few things to note before moving on. This plane comes pre-hinged with the exception of the rudder (like most kits this size). We know that some pilots prefer to hinge the plane as people have been concerned about throw, but all we can assure you, that is not the case here. Our factory has done a great job hinging those models and allowing our customers no limitation regarding deflection. We test all surfaces at about 65 degrees or greater on all surfaces.

With that being said, let’s get started on the stabs.

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Like most models it is highly recommended to rough up the horns before gluing them in. we prefer to use gorilla glue or epoxy.

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For this application we will use white gorilla glue as we really benefit from it expending in such applications.
We also always like to make sure we bolt on the ball links to prevent movement during drying time.

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After all the horns have been set to dry on our elevator, we begin to work on the rudder and the tail end of the plane. First we installed the horns.

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Now that the horns are on, we will align the rudder and tail and prepare to hinge this section.

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Once you are satisfied with the hinge slot alignment, prepare the hinges. Again for this portion we use Gorilla Glue.

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Glue and secure the hinges all the way into the rudder side first.

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Once the hinges are set, insert the other side of the hinge into the tail of the fuselage.

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Now that the rudder is secure, we will install the tail gear.

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Drill a hole as seen here in the rudder.

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Connect the spring guide on the tail wheel to the rudder.

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Approximate build time to this point: 30 minutes

With the rudder being the only thing that requires hinging on this kit, time for prep is greatly reduced. We do recommend spot checking all control surfaces for proper fitment on pre-hinged and manual hinged areas before and after build to ensure proper alignment and fitment.

Now moving on, we will begin work on the landing gear. Standard Carbon Fiber assembly like all of our planes, so these steps are pretty standard across all builds.

We like to begin with the axle.

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Use blue Threadlocker here on the collar screw.

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Then mount the wheel.

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Now moving onto the wheel pants. The come pre-drilled so no need to do anything here beyond lining them up to the carbon fiber landing gear mounting point and secure them.

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Repeat these steps on the opposite side as well and your landing gear will be ready.

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Now to prepare the fuse for the landing gear, remove the bottom cover and clean the area for the gear.

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Mount the carbon fiber gear to the fuse and secure it with the four screws and washers as seen here.

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Now prep the gear surface by giving it a light rub down with sand paper. Just enough to scuff the surface to create a better bond when you glue the cover back on.

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Now apply CA to the surface.

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Use a Kicker on the bottom side of the cover and apply it to the surface.

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While we have the plane upside down, we will do work on the exit holes. This can be done supper quickly with a hot soldering iron.

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Now that this section is complete, we move on to the engine and mounting.

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Standoffs that are supplied with the kit are perfect size for the motor to line up with the cowl. After making a template, we drilled and cut out the motor box.

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Once the engine is securely mounted, we begin work on the throttle servo placement. This plane has plenty of room to work on and set up perfect throttle linkage. Some may choose to use custom servo mounts, but we used the supplied servo mount and glued it inside the motor box in the perfect angel to avoid binding.

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We noticed that using a 3/4″ arm provide perfect geometry on the DA motors, so this is what we use here on our build.

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Next we run the fuel lines to the standard Clear bottle fuel tank that comes with the kit. First we will drill a hole in the side for the fuel line.

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Then run the fuel line through the hole and attach it to your engine.

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Feed the line in till it can be run to the fuel tank inside the fuse and attach it to the top of the tank.

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Now we will mount the ignition by strapping it into the side with the pre-cut slots and secured the wires.

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Once that is complete, we move onto the cowl and cut and mount it to the front of the model.

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Now moving forward, we work on both the right and left wings. As with other control surfaces, we always rough up the bottom portion of the horns before gluing them into our control surface for a stronger and more secure bond.

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Prepare the servo mounting area.

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Then glue and insert the control horns with the ball joints and push-rods mounted.

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Install your servos.

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Then install and attach the servo arm to the push-rod and servo. We use 1.25″ servo arms to get a perfect 1-1 ratio which still gives us 55 degrees or more for deflection.

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Make any needed adjustments to the push rod once installed by turning the center left or right accordingly.

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Repeat these steps on the other wing and then move onto your tail servos. We also selected 1.25″ arms for the rudder and elevator as they provide more then what we need for deflection.

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Once we finish the servos, we ran all the wires to right under the canopy as this is the best place to put the receiver and the battery. We also run the lines for the fuel and the vent.

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Now just install your prop and spinner, test CG, and check all control surfaces for binding. CG for the maiden should sit at 5.50″ back from the leading edge at the wing root. Control Throws should sit at 30 degrees for the start. See the image below for reference.

78-SLICK540-CG

Now your build is complete and you are ready for the maiden.

Thank you all for reading and have fun flying!

Team Aerobeez

 

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