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Aerobeez 93″ Extra 330 Step By Step Build Guide

Posted by aerobeez On April - 2 - 2015

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Hi pilots! Welcome to your Aerobeez 93″ Extra 330SC Full Build Review! In this build, Pete will take you step by step through the full build! Many of the tips may be applied to future builds of other ARF’s!

Here are a few things from your builder Pete.

Hi friends!  First off, I would like to welcome you to this build! I am very excited about this new 93″ Extra330SC! This is sure to be an exciting aircraft with a ton of aerobatic potential! In this build, please keep in mind that these are the steps I take when building a large scale ARF. Steps may be duplicated from area to area and steps may be skipped and returned to depending on how you best like to layout your build. The steps and tips here are from my personal experience. You may use this build as a general guideline if you wish to progress with your own build layout.  If you have any questions or suggestions, please visit us on our Facebook Page and YouTube Channel. You can post messages for us on our social networks and or contact us via email.  

– Pete –

Step 1

Let’s start by locating your main landing gear components. I always start the build by first getting my fuselage on main gears. This makes the build much smoother.

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Step 2

Notice the angle of the carbon fiber main landing gear. The leading edge will be straight (pointing towards the nose of the Extra) and the trailing edge will be tapered (pointing towards the tail of the Extra.)

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Step 3

Use blue thread lock and attach the main gear to the fuselage. The main gear “blind nuts” are factory installed. Note the landing gear “cover” first followed by the screws to hold the cover and the main gear to the fuselage.

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Step 4

Install the landing gear fairings on both sides. Test fit one at a time. You will find that they are side directional and will fit better on one particular side. I chose to use an adhesive called Shoe Goo to glue my fairings to the fuselage. You may choose to use small self taping screws (not included) on the bottom if you do not want to use an adhesive. You may also choose to use CA or Epoxy. Shoe Goo is easier to peel away if in the event the main gear needs to be removed.

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Step 5

Install the wheel axles.

Pete’s Tip: If you have a skateboard skate key, they work perfect for installing the wheel axles.

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Step 6

We include high quality re-buildable aluminum hub wheels in each 93″ Extra 330 SC ARF!

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Step 7

Use blue thread lock on the wheel collar set screws and install the wheels onto the axles. You will use 2 wheels collars per side. If you are experiencing a tight fit in getting the wheel collar onto the axle, check the inside wall of the wheel collar. There may be residual “flash” from the threading process for the set screw from the factory. Use a round file or coarse sandpaper rolled and you can sand the interior diameter of the wheel collar until you have a clean fit.

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Pete’s Tip: Do not fully tighten the wheel collar at this time. You will need to adjust the wheel/collar position to fit center between the wheel pants. Keep the set screw position pointing vertical and this will make adjustments much easier at a later time.

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Step 8

Use blue thread lock and install the wheel pants. The blind nuts are factory installed. When the wheel pants are installed, adjust the wheel position and tighten the wheel collars. Be sure the wheel spins freely.

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Step 9

We will now install the rudder to the fuselage/vertical stabilizer. Be sure to test fit the hinges to the rudder and vertical stabilizer first before applying glue. Included are high quality flat on hinges. Three will be used for the rudder.

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PLEASE TAKE NOTE: One of the hinges is pre-cut on one side shorter. The shorter side is to be used on the bottom of the 3 hinges on the RUDDER SIDE.

Step 10

Use a drop or 2 of oil onto each hinge pin area. This will prevent the adhesive from adhering to the hinge. When you are satisfied with the hinge fitment, glue one side of the hinges FIRST to either the rudder or the fuselage FIRST. When the Epoxy has cured, proceed in gluing the hinges to the remaining surface. I choose to glue to the rudder first. Please use Epoxy for the hinge applications.

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Pete’s Tip: Please use 15 Minute Epoxy as the fastest cure time at minimal! 20 or 30 Minute Epoxy is even better! Do not rush the hinge installation on any of the surfaces by using 5 Minute Epoxy. Especially the Ailerons! There are too many hinges to align and if 5 Minute Epoxy is used, you may find yourself with not enough working time to align the hinges before the Epoxy cures and you cannot move the hinge!

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Step 11

Once the rudder has been glued to the fuselage/vertical stabilizer, turn the fuselage upside down and locate the three holes for the carbon fiber tail wheel assembly and the one hole for the rudder to tail wheel guide post. The three for the carbon tail assemble are pre-cut with blind nuts installed. Remove the covering with a hobby knife on all four holes.

Pete’s Tip: You can use the flashlight method to locate the holes or use the finger pressure method as I did. Press down and you will see the hole indention. Mark it with a marker and remove the covering.

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Step 12

Locate the Carbon Tail wheel assembly.

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Step 13

Using a 1.5mm allen tool, (blue thread lock on the set screws is recommended) center the tail wheel and tighten the wheel collar set screws. Now install the tail wheel assembly to the fuselage.

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Step 14

If you have not done so already, locate the two slots per side for the rudder pull/pull control surface horns.

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NOTE: You have the option on using a pull/pull rudder system with a single servo in the fuselage or a single rudder servo directly mounted in the tail of the fuselage with a single pushrod to the rudder. The parts are included for both of the rudder style set up. I removed both the single rudder servo area covering and the slot for the pull/pull cable set up. You do not need to remove BOTH. This is just for visual purposes to show build alternatives. I will be using pull/pull and the area for the rear mount rudder servo will be covered with the included extra Oracover.

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Step 15

Test fit the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer. Be sure to check the counter balance gap to the horizontal stabilizer.

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Pete’s Tip: Use a permanent pen to mark both side locations of the position of the flat pin hinge. This will be your guide as you can only glue the hinge to one surface at a time. With 3 or more hinges, this will keep the hinge in the correct position when you glue to one side of the surface making the alignment perfect for gluing to the other surface.

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Note: The farthest inside hinge is pre-cut from the factory on one side.

Step 16

The cut side is to be glued to the elevator in the slot closest to the fuselage. It is cut to prevent from contact with the elevator control arms.

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Step 17

Use a few drops of oil on the pin area of the hinges and glue the hinges to the elevators. (both elevators)

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Step 18

While the hinges are curing in the elevators, locate the hardware for the stabilizer. We label each making each hardware for each surface easy to locate.

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Step 19

Use coarse sandpaper or a rotary power took and “scuff” the control arms surfaces where they will be glued to the control surface. The composite material has resin coating that is best to be scuffed as shown here for the best strength in adhesion. Once you have scuffed the arms on both sides, use a soft towel with some Denatured Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol may be used as well) and wipe the composite dust away from the arms. Let air dry before applying glue.

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Note: The Ball Ends are different for the surface end and the servo end.

Step 20

The control surface side of the ball end will use the additional beveled cone washer as seen in this photo. The servo side of the ball end does not have the beveled cone washer.

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Step 21

Install the ball end on the control surface arms and tighten down. Only tighten until “snug”. We are using the ball end side as a guide for gluing the control surface arms. The ball ends will be removed after the surface arms adhesive are cured. Press the composite surface arm guide plate onto the arms. You are now ready to test fit the surface arms.

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Step 22

Once the arm is in position, use a pen to mark the perimeter of the base. Use a sharp hobby knife and lightly scuff and remove the covering from the plate perimeter.

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Step 23

You can now glue your control surface arms onto the control surfaces. We suggest using 15 Minute Epoxy for best strength. Note: At this point, you may choose to repeat this step and install the control surface arms to the rudder and the ailerons. I chose to continue from surface to surface.

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Step 24

Locate the Elevator servo arm slot on the horizontal stabilizers and remove the covering. The servos for the elevators are mounted inside of each horizontal stabilizer.

Pete’s Tip: Cut the covering a bit larger and use a covering iron to iron in the edges for a clean and strong finish. When you are complete, we will set the horizontal stabilizers aside until later in the build.

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Step 25

Test fit your rudder servo. Pete chooses to drill “pilot holes” for his rudder servo using a 1/16 drill bit. The drill bit size will differ depending on your servo screw diameter.

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Step 26

Use a few drops of thin CA in the pilot holes.  Allow to dry before installing the servo and servo screws. This will give the screws a much stronger hold to the wood. When ready, install the rudder servo.

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Step 27

Locate the rudder hardware bag and install the ball ends to the pull/pull cable threaded ends. Do not tighten the ball ends all the way. Only about halfway. This will give more adjustment capabilities later when the cables will need to be tightened.

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Step 28

Use a piece of masking tape and tape the rudder to the vertical stabilizer. This will make installing the pull/pull cables more precise with less effort.

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Step 29

Test layout the cable through the ball end linkage with 2 crimps per end.

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Step 30

When you are satisfied with the cable location, crimp the crimps down with a pair of strong Vice Grips or crimpers. I choose Vice Grips. The pressure is immense giving solid crimp strength.

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Step 31

Use a long rod and run the open end of the cable through to the rear of the fuselage where the pull/pull cable slots exit. Pull the cable open end through the slot. Note: I am using a crossed pull/pull cable system.

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Step 32

Have your rudder servo installed and centered with your radio system or a servo centering unit. You can now attach the ball end to the rudder pull/pull arm and repeat the ball end cable crimp process to the rudder surface arm one side at a time.

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Step 33

Notice the crossed pull/pull cables.

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Step 34

When both sides are installed, apply power to your rudder servo, remove the masking tape from the rudder/vertical stabilizer and adjust the tension of the cables.

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Step 35

Provided in this Extra 330 SC ARF is a high quality composite long servo control arm set. You may choose to use these attached to your stock servo arms. For this build, I am using Miracle Aluminum arms.

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Step 36

Install the ball ends onto the elevator pushrods. Note: One side of the pushrod for the elevators and the ailerons ARE reversed threads. This is for the purpose of adjusting the length of the pushrod without removing one side of the ball end from either the surface or the servo.

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NOTE: Regarding the one side reversed threaded pushrods. Many do not know the purpose of the reversed threads on one side. When you have your servo centered, your servo arm installed and in position ready for the pushrod, this is where the supplied pushrod with a reversed threaded end is a huge user friendly bonus. When you first install the pushrod, the length is estimated as close as you can get. Once you connect the ball end to the surface side and the ball end to the servo arm side, the surface may not be centered, however your servo is centered. All you need to do now is use a pair of pliers or wrench and turn the pushrod from the center clockwise or counterclockwise. This will make the pushrod either longer or shorter until your control surface is neutral. No need to remove the pushrod and adjusting!

Step 37

Depending on the servo you are using and the servo arm or your choice, you may or may not need to remove a small area on the bottom of the stabilizer for the servo arm to travel.

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Step 39

Mount your servo into the horizontal stabilizer.

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Step 40

Using masking tape, secure the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer. This is a great tip for easier elevator pushrod centering adjustments.

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Step 41

Install and adjust your elevator servo arm and pushrod. Choose the best geometry in the servo arm layout for your set up. Repeat steps 38 thru 40 on the other horizontal stabilizer and elevator.

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Step 42

You may have or may have not already glued your ailerons to the main wings.  If you have not, using the same steps as the elevator, be sure to mark each hinge location and repeat the glue process on the ailerons. Remember use 15 Minute or Slower Epoxy and always only glue one side of the surface at a time.

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Step 43

Install the aileron control surface horns with the same steps as the elevators.

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Step 44

Test fit your aileron servos and best to drill “pilot” holes.

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Step 45

Use thin CA and apply to the pilot holes for best strength. When the CA has fully dried, install your aileron servos to both wings.

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Step 46

Using masking tape, secure the aileron from the root and the tip area in the neutral position. This will make adjusting the pushrod length/centering much easier.

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Step 47

Install the pushrod and adjust the centering and position for best pushrod geometry.

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-Engine Mounting-

Engine mounting is one of the most dreaded steps in many hobby enthusiasts build process. With the advancement in motor companies and our Aerobeez Exclusive ARF’s, we make engine mounting simple. The main fear is not being able to center the engine to the center of the propeller hub exit area on the cowling. On all Aerobeez ARF’s the Firewall is pre-glued with the Right Thrust and Down Thrust angles factory set for easy installation of your engine.  You do not need to adjust for Right or Down Thrust. Your engine will mount directly to the firewall with your stand offs! Most engine manufacturer’s will have a downloadable engine standoff template from their website. Download the template and be sure to print the template in actual scale. Aerobeez ARF’s provide the cross lines etched onto the firewall. All you need to do is cut your printed template, tape it to the firewall and drill the holes! Yes it is that easy!

In the next steps we will mount the engine!

Step 48

Download from your engine manufacturer’s website the engine template.

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Step 49

The cross section is etched into the firewall for easy template alignment.

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Step 50

Tape your engine template to the firewall lining up the vertical and horizontal lines from the paper template to the lines on the firewall.

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Step 51

Drill the engine stand-off holes.

Pete’s Tip: I always will drill one top hole first. I then will use one motor stand-off bolt and test mount the engine with one bolt. Check the stand-off mounting locations to make sure they line up with the template. Test fit the cowling. When you are satisfied with the engine location, mark the carburetor lever pushrod location and the fuel line location on the firewall. Remove the engine and drill the remaining holes. You may also drill the engine stand-off holes slightly larger. This will give you a bit of fine adjust room to center the engine to the cowling better.

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Step 52

You may or may not to cut the cowling at this time to test the fitment of the cowling and check your motor position.

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Step 53

All the firewall holes are drilled and ready for engine install.

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Step 54

Once your engine is installed, you can now cut the necessary areas of the cowling to accommodate the fitment of the motor and exhaust of your choice. Keep in mind cooling is always a must. It will be your choice to cut an opening on the aft of the cowl for cooling. Before you cut, the bottom removable hatch has slots cut for cooling. You can remove the covering for the hatch for cooling. This will all be personal preference.

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Step 55

Check for the best position for your throttle servo and install the throttle servo bay using Epoxy.

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Step 56

While the throttle servo bay Epoxy is drying, you can run your elevator servo extensions from the back to the mid section of the fuselage for your elevator servos. A pre-installed tube on the right side of the inside fuselage makes routing the extensions easy.

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Step 57

Install your throttle servo and use the provided throttle pushrod and servo arm linkage hardware options to route the throttle pushrod.

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Step 58

Use the Fuel Tank Build Schematic as a guide to assemble your tank.

fueltank

Step 59

Mount the fuel tank with the provided velcro straps and run your fuel lines for your choice in motor set up.

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Step 60

Let’s make drilling the side holes on the cowling for the cowl screws easy. Use a piece of masking tape about 2″. Cover the entire cowling screw tab on all four tabs.

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Step 61

Use a bright light from the inside of the tab and mark the center of the hole location on the masking tape.

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Step 62

Peal back the masking tape enough to expose the tabs and fit your cowling to the fuselage.

(DO NOT REMOVE THE MASKING TAPE FROM THE FUSELAGE)

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Step 63

If you are satisfied with a tight fit between the cowl and fuselage, fold all four of the masking tape over onto the cowling. 

Note: If you want a even tighter fit, you can install the two screws inside the top area of the fuselage seen in the next photo. Then fold the masking tape over onto the cowling.

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Step 64

If you need a tighter fit, install the two interior cowl screws then fold over the masking tape.

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Step 65

With the masking tape now on the cowling, peel the masking tape away from the fuselage.  This will transfer the masking tape with the tab hole position onto the cowling.

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Step 66

You can now drill the cowl screw holes on the marked hole area for all four tabs. Remove the masking tape and the cowl is ready!

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Step 67

Convenient holes and slots are provided on the engine box to mount your ignition and run the ignition wires to the interior of the fuselage. 

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Step 68

Install your cowling with the silicone washers if you choose. You may also use blue thread lock and a silver washer without the silicone washer.  This is personal pilot choice.

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Step 69

The horizontal stabilizers are easy to attach and remove with 4 screws. Making transporting easier. Using the 4 washer cap screws and silicone washers, connect your elevator servo to the extension and attach the horizontal stabilizer.

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Step 70

The bottom hatch is personal preference if you choose to remove the slots for cooling. This hatch makes access to the interior of the fuselage easy. I chose to cut the covering away from the slots for better cooling.

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Step 71

SFG’s (Side Force Generators) are included and are optional.  You may choose to fly with or without the SFG’s.  They are easy to install and remove with the thumb screws. 

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Step 72

Set your control surface throws to your flying preference.  Range test your radio system and test CG. For CG on this ARF measure the CG from the leading edge of wing root rib.  Adjust the battery pack location. For CG proper position should be at 27% MAC. This recommendation balance point is for your first flights. The CG can be moved around later to fit your personal taste. If you are not comfortable with the calculus involved you can use this online CG Calculator. Just plug in the simple measurements and the app does the calculus.

Note: Use Diagram below as a reference for manual calculation. 

cg-diagram

  The build log is now complete! Go enjoy your new 93″ Extra 330 SC and enjoy your air time!

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If you have any questions, please ask! 

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Aerobeez

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